• Clear the room. Remove furniture and obstacles from the area where the enclosure will sit.
• Leave buffer space. Leave at least 1 ft (30 cm) of clearance behind where the impact screen will hang, and a minimum of 3 in (8 cm) on each side of the enclosure.
• Clean the floor. Sweep or vacuum the space so the fabric shell stays clean and snag-free during setup.
• Verify ceiling height. Check the enclosure's listed height against the actual ceiling height so the frame can stand upright without scraping.
• Unbox all components. Open every box before starting so nothing gets missed.
• Identify the parts. Expect powder-coated steel frame poles (multiple lengths), base corner/angle connectors, one single-piece fabric shell (canopy/wrapper) with two sewn-in sleeves, the impact screen, and ball bungees.
• Sort the poles by length and lay them out roughly where they'll go (base, uprights, top).
• Check quantities against the packing list before starting assembly.
• Take a reference photo. Snap a photo of all parts laid out before starting—if the simulator is ever broken down and rebuilt, this makes reassembly much faster.

• Lay out the base poles on the floor in the shape of the enclosure's footprint (a rectangle).
• Position the base corner/angle connectors at each corner, with the upward-facing socket pointing up.
• Connect the base poles to the corner connectors, pushing each joint together firmly until fully seated.
• Check the footprint. Confirm the base looks square. For precision, measure the diagonals corner-to-corner—they should be close to equal.
• Add the uprights. Insert a vertical pole into each corner connector so the frame starts to stand up.

The enclosure's shell is a single continuous piece with two sewn-in fabric sleeves (channels) that the top frame poles must slide through. This has to happen during upper-frame assembly, not after—read through all the steps below before starting.

• Locate the two fabric sleeves sewn into the shell.
• Check fabric orientation. The shell has a velvet (soft) side and an outer side.
• Confirm the velvet side will face inward, toward the hitting area, before sliding any poles through the sleeves—the shell is much harder to flip once it's installed on the frame.
• Slide the first top pole through its sleeve, keeping the shell centered on the pole.
• Slide the second top pole through its sleeve the same way.
• Connect the first top pole to the uprights, seating the joint fully.
• Connect the second top pole to the uprights, completing the top frame. The shell is now suspended in place, velvet side in.
• Attach any remaining top connectors or supports called for by the enclosure size.
• Let the shell drape down over the sides and front/back of the frame, keeping it centered so an equal amount hangs on each side.
• Secure the shell with hook-and-loop (Velcro) straps, starting at the front and working toward the rear.
• Pull each strap snug and even—not maxed out—so the fabric sits smooth without excess slack.
• Check the full frame. Confirm it stands upright and square, with the shell sitting smooth and no gaps between the fabric and the frame poles. The front face (where the screen mounts) matters most—a little twist elsewhere is not a problem, especially if the floor isn't perfectly level.

The impact screen mounts directly to the frame with ball bungees, and the shell's Velcro flaps then fold over to hide the frame and bungees completely—creating a seamless transition from shell to screen with no visible hardware or gaps.

• Lay the screen out flat in front of the frame.
• Orient the screen. Confirm the correct side (usually smoother and projection-friendly) will face the hitting area.
• Attach the first corner. Loop a ball bungee through the corner grommet and hook it around the frame pole.
• Work across the top edge, attaching a ball bungee at each grommet.
• Work down one side, attaching ball bungees top to bottom.
• Work down the other side the same way.
• Secure the bottom edge with the remaining ball bungees.
• Even out the tension on all sides—snug but not maxed out, so the screen can "catch" the ball and absorb impact.
• Fold over the top Velcro flap, pressing it firmly to hide the frame and bungees along the top edge.
• Fold over each side Velcro flap, pressing firmly along both sides.
• Check the finish. From the hitting position, confirm the screen and shell look like one continuous surface with no visible bungees, frame, or gaps at the seams.

Elite Sim Golf Tip: If 4K projection is planned, spend an extra minute smoothing any waves or creases in the center of the screen—that's the main impact zone and where a flat, clean surface matters most.

• Stand on the hitting position and look directly at the screen.
• Check for ripples vs. folds. Light ripples are normal; large folds or sagging in the center are not.
• Fix sagging. If the center sags, tighten the nearby ball bungees slightly or move them closer together.
• Fix creasing. If a hard crease forms, loosen one or two nearby ball bungees rather than tightening others further.
• Re-check the seams. Confirm the shell-to-screen transition has no visible gaps where a ball could reach the frame or wall behind it.

• Test frame stability. Gently push the frame from the sides and front—it should move as one unit, not wobble.
• Add stabilizers if needed. Use floor weights, anti-slip pads, or wall anchors if the space calls for it.
• Position the hitting mat, centered on the screen.
• Set mat distance according to the launch monitor's recommendation.
• Test with a short club first. Hit a few half-speed wedge or short-iron shots and watch how the screen reacts.
• Check for excess bounce-back. If the ball rockets back, loosen the screen slightly or move the mat farther away.
• Check for drift toward the frame. If shots drift toward the edges, reposition the mat or nudge the screen/shell alignment so the typical shot pattern lands center.

• Mount the projector at the throw distance and offset recommended for the specific model.
• Adjust zoom, focus, and keystone so the image fills the usable screen area without spilling onto the borders.
• Install the launch monitor according to its manual—floor-mounted, ceiling-mounted, or behind the player.
• Complete calibration or any required club/ball setup before hitting full-speed shots.

Elite Sim Golf Tip: Not sure about placement? Reach out to Elite Sim Golf—customers get help dialing in projector and launch monitor layouts for their exact space every day.

• Dust the impact screen with a soft brush or microfiber cloth as needed.
• Spot clean gently with a mild soap and water solution if needed—avoid harsh chemicals that could affect image quality.
• Check the fabric shell periodically for dust buildup.
• Confirm hook-and-loop straps haven't loosened.
• Confirm Velcro flaps still fully cover the frame and bungees.
• Inspect ball bungees every few weeks for overstretching or wear.
• Confirm all frame connections remain fully seated.